What size straight pins should I use? #SewingTips #BeginnerSewer

Sitting on Chelly Wood's sewing table, in her sewing room, are a pair of tiny sewing stitchers scissors, a handmade windmill-shaped pincushion, and a Victorian era thimble.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Sewing for dolls is a great way to break into sewing, for those who’ve never sewn before, so it probably won’t surprise you that I get questions about very basic concepts in my inbox now and then.

Someone reached out to me in 2025 with the question, “What size straight pins should I use?” And I thought, That’s a good question to address in a blog post!

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On a top image, we can see that someone has lain a doll's coat pattern over purple fabric. On the bottom image, they have added straight pins to hold the pattern in place. Each straight pin penetrates the pattern plus the fabric, with its straight pin tip emerging on the other side of the pattern. The line of straight pins goes all along the edges of the pattern, holding the pattern onto the fabric.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable sewing patterns for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Before I address the ideal size for straight pins, I think it would be smart to talk about how straight pins are used.

As you can see in the image above, straight pins are used to pin the sewing pattern onto the fabric before cutting around the edges of the pattern. So the coat pattern at the top is just laying on top of the purple felt. If I didn’t pin it down, the paper would move around while I cut around the pattern. This would cause errors in the cut, and with something as tiny as a doll’s coat, you want to avoid even the smallest errors when cutting.

The  bottom image shows the coat pattern after I’ve pinned the pattern to the felt fabric. Now that the pattern has been pinned to the fabric, I’m safe to cut around the pattern. It won’t move, while I cut around it.

In figure 5, a woman has stuck her needle through the center of the ribbon bow, and the red thread she used to form the false knot will now become an actual knot in the ribbon's bow. In figure 6, a vintage Skipper doll wears her red bodice inside-out, with a straight pin holding it shut at the back. In figure seven, the seamstress has pinned two one-eighth inch wide red ribbons to the front of the red bodice of the long dress from view 6 of Simplicity 5861 Skipper doll clothes sewing patterns. In figure eight, the same straps made of one-eighth inch wide red ribbon are pinned to the back of the doll's bodice, while Skipper is still wearing the dress inside-out.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable sewing patterns for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

There are many other uses for straight pins. In the image above, for example, I’ve used a straight pin to hold the garment shut while trying it on the doll. (See figure 6.)

This is done, so I can align the straps before sewing them to the dress. (See figures 7 and 8.)

We also use straight pins to hold elements of a garment in place as we sew.

Left: Six different straight pins are shown on an imperial measurement cutting mat. Right: A description of each type and size of straight pin is given, as follows: Quilting pins… See the pin with a pretty bluebird on the top? This is actually a quilting pin. It’s long and thin, so it can be pushed through two layers of fabric, plus quilt batting (the fluffy stuff in the middle of a quilt). The pin with the pearl top is also a quilting pin. They range in length from 1 ¼ inches to 2 inches long. Ball head pins… The blue, yellow, and black pins are all ball-head straight pins, and any of them can be used for pinning your patterns down. They range in size from 1 and 1/16 inches to ¾ of an inch long. (The ball isn’t usually calculated in the measurement.) Ball tip pins… If you look closely at the red pin and compare its metal tip to the yellow one beside it, you may notice that these pins have different tips. The red one is a ball TIP pin. These are used with knit fabrics, primarily. They’re not great for woven fabrics because they aren’t as sharp as regular ball head pins. You’ll have trouble pushing it through woven fabrics.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable sewing patterns for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Now I know that some of my followers sew using the metric system. The pink cutting mat shown in the image above uses the imperial measurements, but be patient. I’ve got another example of the same pins on a metric cutting mat.

With that said, take a moment to read through what I’ve written in the illustration above. (If you click on the image, you’ll get an enlarged version, which clearly illustrates and answers the question, “What size pins should I use?”)

You see what I’ve said about using various pins for whatever purpose you see fit? There’s truth in that statement. I don’t just use my teeny-tiny 3/4 inch straight pins for applique. I also use them to pin little itty bitty doll clothes like underpants.

The top image shows the general shape of the underpants or bikini bottoms pattern from Simplicity 9054, as it has been traced and used to cut out a pink diagonally striped cotton fabric. The lower image shows on the left how sewn-on fabric created a natural gather along the edges of the panties' leg hole, after the casing has been made. The lower right shows the other leg of the same panties, which stretches out widely, as it has not been gathered together with sewn-on elastic. These panties are in the process of being constructed, using the View 4 bikini or underpants and bra patterns from Simplicity 9054 from the year 1970.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Sometimes I use them to hold elastic in place as well. I mean, look how tiny that elastic is on those little panties!

And like my daughter, sometimes I use the bluebird quilting pins to pin a woman’s garment pattern to a woven fabric. In fact, I recently made myself a pair of shorts, and that’s exactly what I did.

But it’s a good idea to keep all the pins that are of the same size and used for similar purposes, confined to their own area of a pincushion. That way, when you reach for a 1 and 1/16 inch ball head straight pin, you won’t accidentally grab a 3/4 inch one.

The image shows a baby dragon pincushion curled up into a ball as if he's sleeping. The overlay tells you where you can download the free printable sewing pattern for making this dragon pincushion: ChellyWood.com
Visit ChellyWood.com for free, printable sewing patterns and tutorials.

If your pins and needles form a wacky chaos, like you see in the image above, you’ll never be able to tell one kind of straight pin from another!

By the way, if you want my dragon pincushion pattern, it can be found in the crafts gallery. Click there for a link.

And now for the metric version of the image I showed earlier:

Quilting pins typically range between 31 and 51 millimeters long. Ball head pins tend to be found between 19 to 27 millimeters long. Ball tip pins typically come in the 27 millimeter size, but you can find them in other sizes too. The illustration shows all of the same pins against a metric cutting board, showing centimeter blocks.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable sewing patterns for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

If you’re just learning to sew, and you need supplies, please note that some of my handmade frog pincushions are for sale in my Etsy store. You can also make yourself a pincushion, using one of the patterns on my craft links page.

Before I go, though, I’d like to ask the more experienced sewers, what are some unusual ways you use straight pins? Please leave your thoughts in the comments!

Ball-headed straight pins extend from a wheel-shaped plastic spool. The balls on the head of the straight pins reflect light, and they are pale blue, purple, turquoise blue, white, and (in the distance) red. This is a close-up image, so we can easily see the balls at the head of the pins closest to us, while the other side of the wheel-shaped plastic spool is blurred in the distance.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

This image of a turquoise blue sewing needle pulling purple thread away from a line of cross-stitching is used as a divider between sections of a blog post.

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*Please note: when you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include Amazon, Etsy, and the eBay Partner Network. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases. To learn more about how my website uses affiliate marketing, please visit the website’s Privacy Policy page.

Chelly Wood and the ChellyWood.com website are not affiliated with any of the doll or toy companies mentioned in this blog post, but Chelly enjoys designing her doll clothes to fit a variety of dolls. To learn more about the doll companies mentioned in today’s post, please visit the doll or toy company’s website.

3 thoughts on “What size straight pins should I use? #SewingTips #BeginnerSewer

  1. I am a beginner and the tips really help.
    Is felt better to practice with?

    1. Yes! Felt is a wonderful fabric to start with. It doesn’t need hemming. It’s inexpensive. It sews easily by hand or on a sewing machine. And people are surprised to discover that it is fairly stretchy, so if you’re a little off on your seams, it may still fit the doll.

      A good doll dress to start with that uses felt is my felt-bodice sundress. I offer that dress for a number of dolls, including Barbie, Skipper, Disney princesses, etc… Let me know if you need a link to a specific doll.

  2. Your pin cushions are adorable. I use my pins for making my mini set. But I just use the holder they came.

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