What fabrics to avoid when sewing doll clothes #VintageBarbie #thriftedfabric

On the left is an Advance Barbie pattern 9938 which features a gown, two party dresses, one bathrobe, one cape-like winter coat (swing coat style) and one tennis outfit with a shirt and shorts. On the right, this photo also features the Sew-Easy Advance Barbie wedding trousseau set from pattern number 2895, which includes a day dress with wide collar, a business suit, two evening gowns, a muumuu, and a wedding dress.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Today’s project is a vintage Barbie dress with panels across the bodice. I used two different vintage Barbie patterns to make this dress for a good reason: I was trying to use up my tiny bits of leftover purple fabric!

I also had some black fabric, which I had bought at a yard sale. This black fabric was some sort of polyester blend, and it had already been cut out to be used as a person’s dress when I bought it. Usually that doesn’t matter; there’s plenty of fabric in a person’s garment pieces to be re-used as doll clothes.

But as you’ll find out in today’s blog post, I lived to regret that decision…

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This is a segmented image showing the Skirt from View 3 Advance 2895 and Christmas bodice from View 3 Advance 9938. Image one shows the skirt being cut on a red fabric that's printed with tiny yellow circles, inside of which are tulips. Image 2 shows all the pattern pieces for the View 3 bodice from Advance 9938 and beside each segmented pattern piece lies a fabric counterpart that was cut from that piece. In the third image, we see how each panel has been sewn together from Christmas fabric, with the first panel in white, the second in red, the third (center) panel in white, the fourth in red, and the fifth panel in white, offering a striped look to the bodice in this early stage before it is hemmed or attached to a skirt.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

You may remember that I used the Advance 9938 Barbie pattern to make a lovely Christmas dress a couple of years ago, and it turned out wonderful.

The fabrics you see in the Figures 1-3 images above were also thrifted fabrics. There was only a wee bit of the red and white Christmas tree fabric, so it worked great to use these thin strips of fabric as part of the Advance 9938 View 3 dress bodice’s front panels.

As you can see in the images below, this bodice was part of a very long gown pattern. Here’s a link to the original article I wrote about that dress.

A brunette bubble cut Barbie models a handmade dress that was made using Advance 9938's View 3 dress patterns. In the photo on the far left, white cotton ivy-printed fabric forms the bodice's front, but its sides are red. In the center view, the bubble cut Barbie models the side panel of the bodice, which is red, but has tiny white Christmas trees printed on it. The skirt is made of the same white cotton that's dotted with very tiny holly leaves, just as the center panel of the bodice is made from the same material. On the far right, the doll models the floor-length strapless evening gown with paneled bodice.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

In a later article, I experimented with using an entirely matching fabric for the bodice panels, but attaching the bodice to a much shorter skirt.

I got the skirt pattern you see below from the Advance 2895 Barbie pattern‘s View 3 dress.

This image shows the final dress in three sections. First, there's a close-up of the bodice and its waistline. Second, we see the bubble cut Barbie modeling the tulip dress from the side. Third, we see the vintage Barbie modeling her dress facing forward. Again, this is a dress made using the bodice from Advance 9938 View 3 and the skirt from Advance 2895 View 3, to create a dress like the one shown in Advance 9938 view 1.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

But for this week’s dress, I decided to use the same paneled bodice, so I could use up a couple of very teeny-tiny purple scraps; however this time I wanted to attach it to a pencil skirt instead of a full skirt, like the ones you scrolled through previously.

So I chose to attach the bodice to the pencil skirt that goes with the green dress you see in View 4 below, in the same Advance 2895 pattern that I’ve used before.

This image shows Sew-Easy Patterns by Advance vintage Mattel, Inc. Toymakers Barbie doll clothes sewing pattern #2895, which includes patterns for 1. Bridal Gown, 2. Dress and Jacket, 3. Afternoon Dress, 4. Engagement Dress, 5. Nightgown, and 6. Peignoir.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable sewing patterns for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

However this time, my focus was on creating a bodice with a lining, using the itty bitty purple scraps I had for two of the bodice panels (see figure 1 below) and the strips of fabric that I used for straps (see figure 2 below).

The black fabric you see in the image below made up all the rest of the fabric for this Barbie dress. Again, the black fabric was also earth-friendly because it was part of a yard sale fabric purchase from somebody’s unfinished human-sized garment project.

Figure 1: five bodice panels have been cut out with an identical lining panel, making a total of 10 bodice panels. The linings have been sewn to the outer fabrics. Only two of these panels are purple; all others are black. Figure 2: a woman’s hand holds up two thin purple straps for a doll’s dress. Figure 3: The bodice and its lining have been sewn together, and this bodice is laying open beside the skirt on a cutting mat. Figure 4: The dress has been sewn together with the lining on the inside of the bodice. The lines of the dress appear to be very smooth and sleek.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable sewing patterns for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Now I don’t know if you can tell, but I’ve given this dress bodice a lining, something I didn’t do in either of the earlier iterations of the dresses using Advance 9938‘s paneled bodice.

If you look closely at figures 1, 3, and 4, you’ll see that I’ve actually doubled the panels and sewn a lining made of 5 black panels while the outer bodice uses the 2 purple panels in between 3 black panels.

Have a good look at the texture of the wrong side of the dress’s skirt in figure 4 above. Can you see that weave? This black fabric was actually quite thick.

The solid colored thick black fabric probably would’ve been just fine to use in an adult woman’s dress, but for a tiny Barbie doll, this fabric’s extra thickness created a problem.

Combined dress using Advance 2895 skirt with Advance 9938 segmented bodice showing close up of back closure, where the lining of this dress, and the general bulk of the black fabric, created a lumpy area for running snaps down the back of the dress.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable sewing patterns for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Ugh! Do you see how bulky that back closure area is?

There’s good news though. The black fabric had a lot of stretch to it, almost like polyester woven together with swimsuit fabric. So I was able to make the closure work.

From the front, the dress looks fine. From the back though…? Yeah, not so much.

A brunette Bubble Cut Barbie is shown facing right, left, and center, to best display the paneled bodice from all three front-facing angles for the doll. The pencil skirt fits slick and tight, while there's a bit of bulk in the paneled bodice.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable sewing patterns for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

So the lesson I’ve learned is to avoid any kind of bulky material when making doll clothes. A thinner fabric is simply going to work better. I knew this going in, and I had just hoped I could make it work anyway. Bad idea!

A few examples of thick material to avoid include scuba fabric, thick corduroy, used denim from someone’s jeans, and sometimes fabrics with a pile like thick velvets and furs.  Fabric that’s meant to be used for interior decorating is usually not a good choice either.

Questions: Can you add to this list of fabrics to avoid when making doll clothes? What fabrics have you had a difficult time with in the past, and why? Please add a comment below!

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