Please note that Monster High dolls are all just a wee bit different. For example, the Pearl Serpentine doll has two heads! I chose my Gilda Goldstag doll to use for measurements because her basic body type is probably going to apply to the broadest bunch of Monster High dolls from that era.
It should be noted that in recent years, the company has released a “curvy” version of the Monster High dolls. At the time of this publication, I don’t own one of those yet, but these new models will definitely have different measurements from my Gilda Goldstag doll.
Scroll down for clarifications to each measurement.
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Would you like to compare this doll’s measurements to another doll’s measurements? If so, my Tape Measure Tuesday gallery may be a good place to find the doll measurements you’re looking for.
Clarifications:
Height does not include the doll’s hair (or in Gilda Goldstag‘s case, her horns), but is only measuring from the top of the doll’s actual head to the flat surface I stand them on, when measuring. Before measuring, I always stand the doll on their bare feet, not shoes. If the doll has a foot that’s formed for wearing high heels, I use the flat of the toe area to stand them on, measuring from the top of the actual head to the the surface they’re standing on.
The measurement for the sleeve inseam includes a measurement from the doll’s underarm to what would be the end of a doll’s cuff, when wearing a collared shirt.
The sleeve circumference measurement is a measurement of the widest part of the doll’s arm. If the doll has stiff, wide-spread fingers (and most Monster High dolls do), I measure the spread of the hand for this measurement, to make sure the doll’s hand will go through a sleeve, from the arm hole all the way to (and through) the cuff of a long sleeve.
Where it says “underarm to waist,” this is a measurement of the underarm seam area to the true waist. If you’re not sure what is meant by “true waist,” that’s where the doll’s belly button would be, if the doll had one. If your doll has wider hips than his/her belly, you can measure the true waist by placing a rubber band around the doll’s belly. Where it rests naturally is the “true waist” for most of these dolls. For Gilda Goldstag (my Monster High doll with pink hair), the true waist sits just above her belly button because that’s the skinniest part of her waist.
The doll’s pants inseam refers to the length of the doll’s leg from crotch to just below the ankle bone (if the doll had one) on the inside of the leg. If the doll doesn’t have an ankle bone that’s prominent enough to tell where it is, you have to get creative and imagine one!
The doll’s pants outseam refers to the length of the doll’s leg from the waist, over the hip, to just below the ankle bone.
The doll’s leg circumference is typically taken at the upper thigh. It’s a measurement of the leg at its widest point. For some dolls with extra large, unbendable feet, I take the measurement at the feet, to make sure the doll’s foot will go through the pant leg. However it seemed best, in the case of Gilda Goldstag, to just measure her thigh, as it was wider than her foot is at the heel.
If you need a tape measure, Dritz is a trusted company that makes sewing supplies of a high quality. For dolls, I recommend getting a narrow one, like the 3/8 inch tape measure by Dritz.
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I actually include an extensive explanation about how to measure your dolls in my “How to Alter Doll Clothes Patterns” course on the C&T Publishing learning platform. This class will teach you how to alter pants, skirts, dresses, and shirts too. If you haven’t looked into it yet, you can click here to learn more.
I also have a course on the C&T Publishing website which teaches you how to design your own doll pants patterns from scratch, including leggings, overalls, and fly-front jeans. Click here to check out that new course, which is only $19.99!
For any class on C&T Publishing’s website, you don’t have to follow a schedule. Just sign up when you’re ready.
It’s a one-time fee for the course, and there’s no specific time limit to finish your course. You can just take your time and learn at the pace that suits you. So go check out my paid courses on the C&T Publishing website, using this link.
As always, feel free to share my patterns and tutorial videos, and even today’s infographic, on your favorite social media platforms. I only ask that you give me a mention when you do, so other people will learn about the fantastic resource I’ve created here on ChellyWood.com!
To read more about my free sewing patterns and tutorials, please visit the “Helpful Tips” page.
Disclaimer/Credit/Affiliate Marketing Link:
Please note: when you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include Amazon, Etsy, and the eBay Partner Network. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases. To learn more about how my website uses affiliate marketing, please visit the website’s Privacy Policy page.
If you’re interested in purchasing the doll or dolls mentioned in today’s blog post, please navigate to the doll companies’ website(s) to learn more about the dolls they offer.