How to Improve a Doll’s Bangs (Fringes)

The text in this thumbnail reads, "How to improve a doll's bangs (fringes)" and it shows before and after photos of an Anna doll from Disney's Frozen. In the before photo, the bangs or fringes are separated into two wild curls, while in the after photo, the bangs or fringes lay more or less straight against her forehead. In the before photo, tiny braids extend above her head, whereas in the after photo, the braids are gone. The Chelly Wood dot com logo appears in the lower left corner.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Yesterday we looked at “How to Unbraid a Doll’s Braided Hair” (see link), and today we’re going to learn how to get a doll’s bangs (or as they say in the UK, “fringes”) to lay flat.

If you’ll notice in the photos above and below, the Anna doll from Frozen II has been played with a lot! And for whatever reason, her bangs/fringes are split and curling in two different directions, in the “before” pictures:

There are two photos displayed within a purple background frame. The photo on the left shows an Anna doll from Disney's Frozen. This doll is shown from the front view. Her braids come up from her ears and tie together over the top of her head, with hair flying wildly behind her. There's a spool of pink thread beside the doll to indicate that she's only about six inches for 15.5 cm tall (triple the height of the spool of thread, and then a bit more). Her legs are made of yellow plastic and she wears a thin yellow nightgown, which looks like the pajama she wore in the Disney film. The photo on the right shows the same doll in profile. A woman's hand holds her aloft. The braids atop her head are very tiny and closely braided together. From this angle the state of the rest of her hair is clear. She has wild curls flying everywhere, matted and twisted together in a mass of red hair. Clearly a child has played with this doll a lot!
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

In order to get the bangs to lay flat against her forehead, you’ll need to give her a shampoo. I’m going to pick up where I left off in yesterday’s blog post, with the shampooing method I use.

If you want to learn how to pick the braids apart, I recommend going back to yesterday’s post.

In the background of this photo, a bottle of Dawn dish detergent rests on a cutting mat. In the foreground, a woman's hand holds the twisted ginger-red hair of a Disney Frozen Anna doll that is nude. The hair is still a bit wet, but by twisting the hair in this way, the woman is able to wring the water out of the doll's hair. The chellywood.com logo appears in the lower right corner of the photo.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

You’ll notice in the image above that I use Dawn dish washing detergent to shampoo the doll. You may be wondering, why not just use people’s shampoo products?

Doll hair — especially for modern dolls, less so for antique dolls — is usually made of synthetic fibers. In layman’s terms, the hair is made of super thin strands of nylon — a plastics product — not animal hair.

So it’s a good idea to treat it with products that make sense for plastics.

Now, in previous blog posts about treating doll hair, followers have mentioned that there are a large variety of doll hair materials, and Dollyhair.com has a fantastic chart to help you distinguish between the different types.

The photo on the upper left shows in the background a bottle of "All" fabric softener. In the foreground in the photo, a teaspoon hovers over the top of a coffee mug. Inside the teaspoon is the tiniest little dab of fabric softener. It's less than a quarter teaspoon, perhaps even less than an eighth of a teaspoon of white liquid in a tiny drop or dab of liquid fabric softener, right in the center of the teaspoon. Then, the photo in the lower right corner of this image shows a woman's hand stirring clear water inside a coffee cup, using the same teaspoon. The text beside this photo reads, "mix with warm water."
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Once she has been shampooed, I add just a titch of fabric softener to a cup of very hot water. Take a look at the image above to see what I mean by a titch!

You’ll notice that I’m using All liquid fabric softener in the photos above, but I don’t recommend that brand. Honestly, I’ve had more success with Downy fabric softener instead. Again, yesterday’s blog post about unbraiding doll hair explains why.

The image shows a doll's long red or ginger colored hair that has been shampooed, conditioned with fabric softener, and brushed out, but the ends of the doll's hair are fuzzy like split ends. The Chelly Wood dot com logo appears in the corner.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Essentially, I’m finding that dolls get more of a “split ends” look when you use cheaper fabric softener, as you can see in the image above. I was not happy about this at all, and next time I’ll be switching back to Downy.

But I digress…

Let’s get back to the steps for making those bangs/fringes look nice.

Next I soak the doll in the hot water that has the titch of fabric softener mixed in. You need to really mix the fabric softener into the hot water until it’s all dissolved.

An Anna doll from the Disney Frozen franchise has almost her whole body exposed, outside the water, while her hair, including the bangs or fringes soaks in a coffee cup of warm water. The image is shown from above. The Chelly Wood dot com logo appears in one corner.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Soak all of the hair in the water, but try to leave as much of the doll’s body outside of the water as possible. When I say, “soak all of the hair,” that includes the bangs/fringes.

If water gets into the hollow parts of the doll’s body, it can cause mold to grow. That’s why you want to leave the body outside of the water.

In the foreground a tiny doll rests with her head in a coffee cup. In the background, the timer on a mobile phone (cell phone) shows ten minutes. This image is part of a series of blog posts on ChellyWood.com about repairing damaged doll hair, and specifically, working with the braids and bangs on the Disney's Frozen Anna toddler doll.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Set a timer for ten minutes.

Once she’s done with the hair soak, dry the hair with gentle pats, using a soft towel. Then brush the hair, starting with the ends of the hair.

Expect some hair loss, but patience and a gentle stroke with the hairbrush will prevent too much of this.

Brush the bangs/fringes and shape them into the basic shape you want them to hold when dry.

Now we come to the part where we re-shape the bangs/fringes.

The text in this thumbnail reads, "How to improve a doll's bangs (fringes)" and it shows before and after photos of an Anna doll from Disney's Frozen. In the before photo, the bangs or fringes are separated into two wild curls, while in the after photo, the bangs or fringes lay more or less straight against her forehead. In the before photo, tiny braids extend above her head, whereas in the after photo, the braids are gone. The Chelly Wood dot com logo appears in the lower left corner.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Place an object that’s circular and either made of plastic or glass, over the top of the doll’s head. I used a glass baby food jar in the photo below (scroll down) because it was see-through, which made it possible to see inside, making sure no bits of bangs were sticking up.

You can also use a plastic ring, like the rings that milk jug lids have when you first unseal them. You may need to use masking tape to re-connect the two ends of the plastic ring, which will give you an opportunity to adjust the size of the ring to fit your doll’s head.

I don’t recommend using metal because it can stain the doll’s hair with rust.

Leave the doll in a window sill to dry, with her hair styled like you want it, including the bangs/fringes. Make sure the drying area isn’t frequented by children or pets who may disturb the doll as she rests in her styling zone!

In a purple frame, a photo of a doll sitting in a coffee cup on a window sill demonstrates that when repairing doll hair, you must put the doll in a warm location to allow the hair to dry after washing. This is a Disney Anna doll from the Frozen franchise. She sits in a coffee cup on the window sill. The coffee cup has a quote from Philippians (in the bible) which states, "...for you have a special place in my heart." Over the doll's head is a tiny glass jar, and the top of her head, including the bangs or fringes is encased in this tiny glass baby food jar. This re-shapes the bangs or fringes to press them down as they dry.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

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For anyone who would like to expand their dolls’ wardrobes, you should really check out my “How to Alter Doll Clothes Patterns” course and my “Design Your Own Doll Pants Patterns from Scratch” classes on the Creative Spark online learning platform. Here’s my bio page on their website, where you can learn more.

This image shows four rows of artist's renderings of doll clothing items. The top row shows four different styles of pants. The second row shows four different styles of shirts. The third row shows four different styles of skirts. The fourth row shows four different styles of dresses, with skirts in long, short, and mid-length styles. The text reads at the top, "Classes in Doll Clothing Design" followed by this paragraph: "Have you ever wished you could create patterns of your own? Click on the links to Chelly's online courses below, to learn more about her paid courses in doll clothing pattern design techniques."

For any class on Creative Spark, you don’t have to follow a schedule. Just sign up when you’re ready.

It’s a one-time fee for the course, and there’s no specific time limit to finish your course. You can just take your time and learn at the pace that suits you. So go check out my paid courses on Creative Spark, using this link.

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Chelly Wood and the ChellyWood.com website are not affiliated with any of the doll or toy companies mentioned in this blog post, but Chelly enjoys designing her doll clothes to fit a variety of dolls. To learn more about the doll companies mentioned in today’s post, please visit the doll or toy company’s website.

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