When your pattern doesn’t fit on the fabric, what do you do? #SewingTips #couture

An Asian Tall Barbie wearing a black Halloween dress with candy prints stands in front of a photo showing a woman holding a ruffle pattern from Advance 2896 for Vintage Barbie dolls. The pattern is pinned to a small piece of fabric, but it extends beyond what the fabric can accommodate. A thought bubble from the Barbie reads, "What can you do when a ruffle pattern is too long for the fabric?" The Chelly Wood dot com logo is in one corner, indicating the content is from ChellyWood.com.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

We’ve all had it happen. You’re thinking, “A fat quarter should be enough to make this little doll dress. Right?” You get home, start pinning the pattern pieces onto the fabric, and then… “Oh crap.”

That fat quarter isn’t quite long enough for the skirt’s ruffle (or whatever piece still needs pinning). What can you do?

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The image shows part of the Advance 2896 sewing pattern for vintage Barbie dolls. On a cutting mat, there are two stages of a ruffle. In the first stage, two strips of Halloween candy-printed cotton fabric are placed side by side. In the next stage, these strips are sewn together at one end with right sides facing. The ruffle is hemmed but not yet gathered. Arrows and text indicate "from this" (the strips of fabric) “to this" (the stitched and hemmed ruffle). Halloween-themed images are scattered around.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

When it’s a ruffle pattern piece, the solution is simple enough. Cut it in two or three segments, sew these together end-to-end, and then follow the directions for making the ruffle from there on out.

But what about when it’s a bodice piece, which is the case with my Halloween Barbie dress from the vintage Barbie pattern Advance 2896?

One solution is to cut any “inside” pieces (like a lining, a side-seam pocket, or a facing), using a different fabric. When you do this, it’s usually best to choose an interior fabric that nicely coordinates with the outer fabric.

Halloween-themed sewing project featuring cut pieces from Halloween-printed cotton fabric: two bodices, one skirt piece, and a ruffle made from two long skinny pieces of fabric. An arrow points to one end of the stacked fabric strips. Surrounding the garment pieces are graphics of Halloween candy and large purple letters that read ”Happy Halloween!” These pieces of fabric have been cut using vintage Barbie pattern Advance 2896, for the view 5 dress.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

In the image above, I created my bodice lining using a mottled-appearance orange cotton fabric for the lining of my Halloween-themed dress, which matched some of the outer fabric’s printed Halloween candies. The reason you see two bodices there is because the orange one is a lining; the black bodice is the outer fabric.

The two longest strips of fabric are lying one on top of the other because I’m going to sew them together where the arrow is pointing, creating one long strip for the ruffle piece, as you’ll see in the image below, which has now been gathered and attached along the bottom of Barbie’s Halloween dress.

Tall Barbie wearing Halloween dress made from vintage Barbie pattern Advance 2896. She stands in a graveyard with jack-o-lanterns glowing at her feet. The black Halloween-candy-printed dress she wears is sleeveless and has a pretty ruffle made of the same printed cotton material as the dress.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Before I end today’s short blog post, I want to mention that the doll you’re seeing in my Advance 2896 View 5 dress is actually a modern TALL Barbie, so interestingly, I can fit my tall Barbie into this pattern just fine.

Although as we all know, most tall Barbies are typically a little smaller in the bust than a vintage Barbie. (If you’re not sure what I’m talking about, maybe go back to visit this blog post, which talks about the differences between Barbies of different eras.)

Now it’s your turn. When you’ve found yourself in a pickle because you don’t quite have enough fabric to finish cutting out a garment, what are some additional solutions to the problem — some answers I didn’t mention above?

This image of a turquoise blue sewing needle pulling purple thread away from a line of cross-stitching is used as a divider between sections of a blog post.

Most of the commercial patterns I display and talk about here on ChellyWood.com are also available for sale on eBay. However, if you’ve never purchased a pattern on eBay before, it’s a good idea to read the article I wrote called, “Tips for Buying Used Doll Clothes Patterns on eBay.” It will save you time, money, and will likely prevent buyer’s remorse.

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For anyone who would like to expand their dolls’ wardrobes, you should really check out my “How to Alter Doll Clothes Patterns” course and my “Design Your Own Doll Pants Patterns from Scratch” classes on the C&T Publishing website. Here’s my bio page on their site, where you can learn more.

This image shows four rows of artist's renderings of doll clothing items. The top row shows four different styles of pants. The second row shows four different styles of shirts. The third row shows four different styles of skirts. The fourth row shows four different styles of dresses, with skirts in long, short, and mid-length styles. The text reads at the top, "Classes in Doll Clothing Design" followed by this paragraph: "Have you ever wished you could create patterns of your own? Click on the links to Chelly's online courses below, to learn more about her paid courses in doll clothing pattern design techniques."

For any class on the C&T Publishing website, you don’t have to follow a schedule. Just sign up when you’re ready.

It’s a one-time fee for the course, and there’s no specific time limit to finish your course. You can just take your time and learn at the pace that suits you. So go check out my paid courses on the C&T Pub site, using this link.

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*Please note: when you click on links to various merchants on the ChellyWood.com site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include Amazon, Etsy, and the eBay Partner Network. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases. To learn more about how my website uses affiliate marketing, please visit the website’s Privacy Policy page.

Chelly Wood and the ChellyWood.com website are not affiliated with the pattern company or companies mentioned in this blog post, but Chelly finds inspiration in the doll clothes designed by these pattern companies. To purchase patterns from Simplicity, McCall’s, Butterick, Vogue, or other pattern companies shown and discussed in this blog post, please click on the links provided here. These links below the “Disclaimer” section do not help raise money for this free pattern website; they are only offered to give credit to the company that made these patterns.

4 thoughts on “When your pattern doesn’t fit on the fabric, what do you do? #SewingTips #couture

  1. Ruffles always need so many fabric. I always feel the temptation to cut them shorter!
    I did it sometime and it was not so different but it was just a 1-2 inches question.
    Now I am trying to sew a pattern with a double tulle ruffle.

    1. Oh goodness! Tulle seems like it should be easy to work with, but sometimes it’s not.

      When my daughter was in a junior theater group, as the “mom of a thespian,” I had to sew 12 turquoise blue glitter tutus for the actors and actresses playing little ballerina frogs. I’m still finding blue glitter in my sewing machine, and that was ten years ago! LOL! 🐸

  2. Other alternatives when you don’t have enough fabric.
    – make different parts of the garment in different fabrics, i.e., bodice in one color, shirt or ruffle in another.
    – color block the garment. Sew 2 pieces of fabric together, then cut out the garment piece (usually the bodice) with the seam wherever you like the on the bodice piece. Usually best to duplicate in the lining fabric if you end up with a diagonal lay of the fabric as it impacts how the fabric lays.

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