Glossary of Sewing Terms with Pictures: What is bias tape used for? #SewWithMe #SewingVocabulary

The image collage serves as a picture dictionary for the term "bias tape," illustrating its definition and uses in sewing. It includes:A package of Wrights double-fold quarter-inch wide lilac bias tape, showcasing its packaging. A Barbie-sized trench coat featuring bias tape as binding along the collar and front closure, demonstrating its application in garment construction. One-inch wide double-fold green bias tape, displayed both folded and open, with visible pressed-in raw fabric edges. A side-by-side comparison of lilac quarter-inch and one-inch wide bias tapes, highlighting the size difference. A purple bias tape, not double-fold, revealing the raw fabric folds from the back side. A purple leaf-printed fabric with lilac bias tape sewn to its raw edge, accented by yellow stitching. A swatch of green plaid fabric being cut diagonally, labeled as "Example of cut on the bias," illustrating the diagonal cutting technique through plaid lines. A graphic of a bias tape making tool at the bottom, indicating its role in creating bias tape from fabric. This collection of images and text provides a comprehensive visual explanation of bias tape, its flexibility, and its practical sewing applications.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

DEFINITION: 

Bias tape is fabric that has been cut on the bias, making it very flexible. When folded and sewn around a circular edge, its flexibility keeps it from winding in waves (as can be problematic in a rolled hem).

This is my own definition. Of course you can google this term to find other definitions as well.

As an Amazon Affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases. You can learn more about my affiliate marketing program on the Privacy Policy page.

The Chelly Wood doll, which is actually a Spin Master Liv doll that has had its face repainted and its wig dyed grey to look like the real doll clothing designer, YouTuber, and writer, Chelly Wood, models an easy-to-sew trench coat designed by Chelly Wood, to fit fashion dolls like Barbie, Spin Master Liv dolls, Tall Barbie, and more. For the free winter coat / trench coat patterns, please go to Chelly Wood dot com and search for eleven and one half inch dolls' free doll clothes sewing patterns.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

In the image above, the Chelly Wood doll (a Spin Master Liv doll that my daughters did an OOAK remake of) models a trench coat that uses bias tape around the collar and front closure.

As it says in the photo collage at the top of the page, bias tape is really designed to be folded over and stitched to a curved area (like a neckline, sleeve cuff, or hem) to prevent that warped, twisted look that can happen to fabric when you’re trying to hem it. What do I mean by “warped” and “twisted”?

Well, we had our window replaced the other day, and when they came to measure, I took down the curtains that had been hanging for the past ten years in what used to be my oldest daughter’s bedroom. I washed the curtains while the fixit guys worked on the window, but when I took the curtains out of the dryer and started to iron them, I realized that the curtains had this warped look to their hem:

A purple fabric is shown on a turquoise blue cutting mat with arrows pointing along the hem of the purple fabric. Each arrow points to an area where the purple fabric's hem has a twist that leaves a sort of warp or wave in the hem.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Now I can’t say for certain that I didn’t create this twisted looking hem. After all, when my kids were younger, most of my sewing had to be done in a rush! But my suspicion is… when my daughter was learning to sew, she probably made these curtains with the not-so-perfect hemline.

What would have made it easier? Adding a little bias tape to the hem area of the curtains! But she would have been between 13 and 15 when these curtains were made, so… Anyone who has raised a teenage daughter knows what that means.

Mom’s advice is worth about as much as a pickle.

A real-life teenage girl wears headphones and holds a cell phone while smirking. She wears a pink tee shirt and jeans. Next to her is a larger-than-life graphic image of a pickle wearing sunglasses with his cartoonish arms crossed as if he's leaning against a wall of the teenage girl's house, waiting to say something very witty.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

So yeah, you can actually add bias tape to curtains. Bias tape can be used to finish the edges of a quilt too.

But what are some of the other things I’ve used bias tape for, besides its usefulness along an object’s hem?

With doll clothes, bias tape makes a wonderful cuff under a puffy sleeve:

Here we see a doll representing the Disney character Merida from the Disney Pixar movie Brave. she wears a green plaid dress with green ribbon trim and solid green cuffs made of 1/2 inch bias tape. She walks with her arms splayed out, as if she's getting ready to spin around. Under her dress, she wears ivory-colored bloomers with lace trim. The ChellyWood.com logo appears in the lower right corner of the photo.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable sewing patterns for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

And this may sound like a bit of a “cheat” (and in fact it is), but you can make your life a whole lot easier if you just sew bias tape onto the front of a dress to form a faux collar.

That’s what I did here:

A 6 and 3/4 inch (18 cm) Strawberry Shortcake doll with yellow-blond hair models a lovely sunflower yellow dress with tiny black dots (reminiscent of very teeny-tiny bees). The dress is quite long -- floor length -- with a very full skirt and a bodice that has darts. The dress's yellow fabric cascades from the low waist of the doll to the floor in lovely folds of yellow fabric. Her collar is a sharply contrasting black bias tape, as are her very short sleeve cuffs. The doll stands facing just slightly to the photographer's right. Her hands lightly touch the folds of yellow fabric at her skirt. The wall behind her is a pale blue while the floor is bright white. The Chelly Wood dot com logo appears in one corner.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

When making a dress or halter top for a teeny-tiny doll, like the Mattel Stacie dolls, Topper Dawn, and Palitoy Pippa dolls, bias tape can be used at the top of the halter top or halter-style dress for a back closure at the neck.

Here’s what I mean:

Three Stacie dolls model the same dress. On the left, it shows an African American 9 inch Stacie doll modeling a felt and cotton easy-to-sew dress from the side view; in the center a Caucasian Stacie models the dress from the front view; on the right the same African American Stacie doll models the same green and white easy-sew dress from an angle facing slightly toward the left of the viewer.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Do you see the little snap at the back of the neck of the dress? I’ve sewn a snap onto my bias tape to form a closure.

I suppose you could use it this way on bigger dolls too, with a wider bias tape and Velcro as a closure at the back, but I don’t have any examples of that.

I do, however, sometimes use bias tape the same way I use ribbon, sewing its folds together and using it for the shoulder straps of a dress or for a purse’s strap:

In this close-up of the purse Barbie carries, we see the pink grapefruits, bright pink watermelons, leaf-topped cherries, and other fruits in closer detail on the fabric. Her little tiny Barbie-sized thumb is behind the strap of her purse, like a real woman would carry her purse. The ChellyWood.com logo is in the corner.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

When making a doll’s outfit out of felt, it’s not a bad idea to add a layer of bias tape along the outside edge of the felt, to keep it from fraying when it’s used a lot during playtime.

That’s what I did at the top of Moana’s strapless dress here:

A lovely 10 inch Moana doll gazes toward the viewer. Her hair is pulled back, and she wears a strapless dress. The bodice of the dress is the focus of the image, with a deep turquoise blue felt bodice that has darts sewn in it, and the top half of the bodice is made with a half inch navy blue double-fold bias tape. The bias tape has been hand stitched to the blue felt bodice. Without straps, Moana's shoulders gracefully slope down to her arms, which are spread wide to hold the skirt (which is out of view).
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

I believe that’s half-inch wide, double-fold bias tape that you see there.

Which brings me to the recommended brands. Wrights bias tape is the brand I feel most comfortable buying, and you can find it on Amazon, Etsy, and other online sources. It’s even found in some craft stores.

And with 11 inch fashion dolls and smaller, I typically use quarter-inch wide (6 mm) double-fold bias tape. Half inch, like you see on the dress above, can work along an area that would normally have a long hem, but usually on a Barbie-sized doll, I don’t recommend it. Your doll’s shirt might look a little too boxy and bulky with half inch wide bias tape, as you can see in this example:

Image shows Mattel's Made to Move Barbie wearing a hand-made felt shirt with bias tape trim. She also wears a pair of capri pants that are hand-made and little plastic sneakers (trainers). Overlay says, "ChellyWood.com: Free doll clothes patterns and tutorials."
Visit ChellyWood.com for free, printable sewing patterns for dolls of many shapes and sizes.

But even with the tiniest dolls, you can usually get away with quarter-inch wide double-fold bias tape from Wrights, for hems and cuffs.

Here’s an example of an Easter dress on a little tiny Kelly doll, and both the hem and the sleeve cuffs are made using Wright’s double-fold bias tape:

Here we see a tiny 4 inch Kelly doll modeling an Easter dress with long sleeves and a 3/4 length skirt. The sleeves and skirt are trimmed with bias tape. The bodice is made of bright springtime green felt. the skirt and sleeves are made of cotton print fabric that has colorful oval Easter Eggs scattered about with tiny black lines connecting them.

I probably should have stitched bias tape to the little felt collar as well, for that project. It would have made the dress’s felt bodice last a lot longer.

Sometimes I make my own bias tape, instead of buying Wrights. There’s a tool you can use to help you get it evenly folded and pressed.

Figure 1 below shows the home-made bias tape that I made for my Chelly Wood doll’s trench coat (pictured closer to the top of today’s blog post). Figure 2 shows how I stitched together strips of fabric at an angle, in order to form the bias tape. Figure 3 shows the tool people use for making their own bias tape.

Figure 1 shows handmade bias tape laying on a cutting mat beside a metal bias tape making tool. Figure 2 shows the bias tape laying open, so you can see where Chelly Wood has stitched together different pieces of fabric that were cut on the bias. Figure 3 shows a closer look at the bias tape making tool. It's small enough to fit in the palm of a woman's hand, it's made of metal, and it has a little hook on the wider of the two ends of the tool.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

To learn more about making bias tape from scratch, you might want to go read this blog post.

DISCUSSION QUESTION: 

What brands of bias tape have you purchased that worked well or didn’t work well at all?

Have you made your own bias tape? And how did that go?

Please come back to this blog post at the end of next week, so you can see what comments other people left!

This image of a turquoise blue sewing needle pulling purple thread away from a line of cross-stitching is used as a divider between sections of a blog post.

If you enjoyed this blog post, and you’d like to see my videos, you might want to navigate over to my YouTube channel, ChellyWood1 to look through my playlists.

If you would like to make a donation to this free doll clothes pattern website, please click here. There’s also a “Donate” button in the main menu.

Chelly Wood teaches doll clothing design and alteration classes on the  C&T Publishing online learning platform. Please click that link to learn more.

Disclaimer/Credit/Affiliate Marketing Link:

*Please note: when you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include Amazon, Etsy, and the eBay Partner Network. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases. To learn more about how my website uses affiliate marketing, please visit the website’s Privacy Policy page.

Chelly Wood and the ChellyWood.com website are not affiliated with any of the doll or toy companies mentioned in this blog post, but Chelly enjoys designing her doll clothes to fit a variety of dolls. To learn more about the doll companies mentioned in today’s post, please visit the doll or toy company’s website.

2 thoughts on “Glossary of Sewing Terms with Pictures: What is bias tape used for? #SewWithMe #SewingVocabulary

    1. Hi Robin. Thank you for your comment. It’s ironic that you would submit this question because I just finished typing a blog post on this very same topic, and it will be viewable tomorrow. Here’s the link for you to access as early as tomorrow morning at 7 AM Mountain Time.

      In short, my two favorite brands are Singer and Viking Husqvarna. If you’re new to sewing, though, my blog post recommends that you purchase a Janome as a starter-machine.

      At the end of tomorrow’s blog post, I ask my followers to give their recommendations. For example, I’ve never owned a Babylock, but I’ve had friends who swear by that brand. So hopefully we’ll hear additional opinions on brands I’ve never owned.

      Again, thanks for asking this timely question!

Leave a Reply

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.