How do you make a casing? #SewingChat #SewingVocabulary

The image shows a wooden cutting table, upon which lies a piece of blue fabric with white polka dots. We see the fabric from the wrong side, where the polka dots are faded. But the brighter fabric has been folded over the faded side of the fabric. Along the edge of this bright fabric fold, pink stitches appear. A textbox offers the following definition for a casing: a tunnel-like section of a sewn object, through which one may pull a drawstring, curtain rod, or elastic.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

DEFINITION: A casing is a tunnel-like section of a sewn object, through which one may pull a drawstring, curtain rod, or elastic.

This is my own definition, but you can find the Merriam-Webster definition here as well.

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DISCUSSION QUESTION: How do you make a casing?

Most often, I make a casing when I’m creating a garment that uses elastic. I form a tunnel at the waistband or the bottom of a sleeve, by doing first one fold in the edge of the garment, and then a second fold that’s much deeper.

Some commercial doll clothes patterns skip that first folded edge, but I don’t ever want my casing’s edge to fray, so I find it helpful to do a first fold, and stitch that first fold inside the casing, to create a cleaner edge.

When I say that some commercial doll clothes patterns skip that first folded edge, this is what I mean:

Figure 1 shows a rectangular pattern which says "Panties, H" right in the center. Other instructions on the pattern state "Fold line for casing," "Leave open," "back seam," the number 12, "place at seam" (atop a circle), "hemline," and one fourth inch seam. Figure 2 shows a rectangle of orange fabric that has had its longest sides folded in; at top, it's folded and stitched to form a half inch wide casing; at bottom, it's folded in to form a quarter inch hem.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

The casing shown at the top of the garment in figure 2 above only has a single fold, so just under my stitch line, the raw fabric will eventually begin to fray. Because children dress and undress their dolls so much, I like to do what I can to prevent fray.

So I fold the edge of the fabric once (making a tiny fold that’s hidden inside the casing), and then a second time (with a deeper fold that forms the casing) before stitching my casing. Compare the garment below to the one above, and you’ll see how the fabric’s raw edge is hidden inside the casing for the skirt I’ve sewn a casing for, below.

Here we see a swatch of greenish-teal colored fabric with a medallion print. It has a casing sewn at the top of the swatch of fabric, as if it is in the late stages of being sewn into a skirt form. Lace has been sewn to the skirt fabric, with the edge of the lace incorporated into the casing. About 3 quarters of an inch or 1.5 centimeters of lace sticks out from beneath the skirt's greenish-teal-colored medallion fabric. The Chelly Wood dot com logo appears in one corner.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable sewing patterns for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

It’s possible to make sleeves this way, as well, so you can slip a length of elastic inside the sleeve’s cuff-area casing, to create a gathered end where the doll’s wrist is located.

In this case, I’ll sometimes add a stitch along both folded areas of the sleeve’s fabric, running my stitches at the top and bottom of the casing.

Here’s what that looks like:

In this photo, a woman's index finger and middle finger have been inserted into the inside-out end of the pioneer dress's sleeve. She is spreading her fingers apart to show the casing, which makes a channel right at the base of the sleeve, for the elastic to pass through. With the dress bodice inside-out, we can see that the casing is a separate cut of fabric, not part of the sleeve's original cut. The lace is sewn between the sleeve and its casing. The Chellywood.com logo appears in the upper right corner of the photo.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

That produces a little different look to the final garment, having that tiny bit of non-casing that sticks out from bottom of the sleeve.

Here’s how it looks when finished, as you would see it from the wrong side. Notice how the elastic inside the casing gathers up the fabric:

A woman's hand holds a tan gingham dress bodice against a mottled turquoise blue background. The dress bodice is inside-out, so we can see that the bodice portion is lined with gingham that looks slightly darker than the fabric of the sleeves. This indicates that the bodice front and back are lined, while the sleeves are not. The sleeves are gathered at the shoulder and they appear to have a "gathered look" at the wrists, but this is likely due to the presence of a casing that runs a long the bottom of each sleeve, encasing the elastic that creates the gathered appearance. We see a nub of elastic sticking out of one of the casings on the right. This bodice is unattached to the dress's skirt, and the fabric at the bottom of the bodice is raw and slightly frayed. The sleeves end in narrow lace embellishments. There's a logo for ChellyWood.com in the lower right corner of the photo.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

It’s especially helpful to have that extra lip at the every end of the sleeve when you’re applying some sort of trim, like the lace I added to these sleeves.

This is how that dress looked when finished:

In front of a turquoise blue mottled backdrop, a Barbie with brown hair, bangs, and the Steffie face mold models a handmade pioneer-style dress. The dress has a scoop neck, puff sleeves, and a floor-length skirt. It's made of tan gingham check fabric, and it has gathered cuffs with a thin lace trim at the end of each puffy sleeve. The doll's head is cocked slightly to her left, accentuating her innocent facial expression. The ChellyWood.com logo is in the lower right corner of the photograph.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

I’ve made my own curtains many times as well, and of course, they also use a casing. I’ve used both variations of casings — the single stitch at the bottom of the casing method, and the stitches above and below the casing — when making curtains. Again, it really depends upon the look I’m trying to achieve.

Okay everyone, your turn! How do you sew a casing? Any tips or tricks to share with the rest of us?

Do you prefer to sew a casing on the sewing machine, or do you find it easier to control your stitches when sewing a casing by hand?

Do you use different methods for elastic, curtain rods, drawstrings, etc?

How do you finish off your stitches when sewing a casing?

This image of a turquoise blue sewing needle pulling purple thread away from a line of cross-stitching is used as a divider between sections of a blog post.

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