What is the best fabric for circle skirts? #SewingTips #DIY

We're looking at the back of the Simplicity 5861 doll clothes sewing pattern, which was designed to fit vintage Skipper dolls. We can see the line drawing of each item of clothing offered here, including three shirt styles, on bolero jacket, a jumper-style dress, a dress with circle skirt, a pleated skirt, a pair of elastic-waist pants, a coat, a trapezoidal shaped scarf, and a long dress with simple bodice and ribbon straps. Specs are offered for each view, including what fabric lengths are needed. Suggested fabric types are listed as follows: cotton and blends, velveteen, corduroy, synthetics and blends; jumper, pants, skirt, coat and jacket also in wools and blends; evening dress also in satin.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable sewing patterns for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

On the back of this Simplicity 5861 vintage sewing pattern for Skipper dolls, the View 2 line drawing of the dress shows the ideal drape of a circle skirt, after the doll’s dress has been made.

With dolls, though, the circle skirt doesn’t usually drape like that! Scroll down to the next image, and you’ll see that after I made the View 2 dress for my vintage Skipper dolls (shown below on my modern Mattel Stacie doll), it was much more “swirly” than the line drawing shows.

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In the photo on the left, an African American Stacie doll models a handmade black and white gingham dress. It's a sleeveless dress with a circle skirt. The skirt comes to about mid-thigh and is quite twirly. Under this dress, she wears a pair of handmade bobby socks made of white cotton under her black plastic flats. The shoes have a tulle ribbon at the front. The photo on the right shows the same doll in the same dress with shoes and white fold-over bobby socks, but on top of the dress, she wears a red bolero with three-quarter length sleeves. It ties in the front with what appears to be a black ribbon tied in a bow.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable sewing patterns for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

I mean, yes, it turned out super cute! I have no regrets! But a 100% cotton circle skirt doesn’t drape on a little doll the same way it would drape on a person.

It can help soften the drape of the circle skirt if you use a polyester blend fabric instead of using 100% cotton.

Have a look at the differences between my vintage Skipper’s cotton/poly blend circle skirt (pictured on the left below) and the 100% cotton circle skirt (pictured on the right):

A vintage skipper doll models a red cotton bolero over a black and white gingham sleeveless dress with a circle skirt that's knee-height. Beside this doll, a vintage Skipper models a pink felt bolero with green rickrack trim over a similar dress, but this dress is made of green cotton with tiny white and pink roses, and it's a calf-length circle skirt. The text for this thumbnail says "same pattern -- two looks!"
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

It should be noted that the skirt on the left was cut longer than the pattern, and I accidentally cut the skirt’s waist too wide for that green dress too. So I ended up gathering the waist a bit before attaching the skirt to the bodice.

That can make a difference in how a skirt drapes too.

For my Butterick 6664 pattern, lightweight jersey fabric is recommended for the circle skirt that’s part of the ice skater’s outfit designed to fit a vintage Marie Osmond doll.

Here we see a photo of the Marie Osmond 6664 "Butterick's Personality Doll Wardrobe" envelope and its photo of an actual Marie Osmond doll modeling a red western shirt with white front yokes and a pair of shiny black pants. The pattern options to the doll's right are showing a yellow jumper (in the USA sense of "jumper" -- a sleeveless dress which is sometimes worn over a shirt): a floor length caftan dress with ribbon ties at the sleeve and a waistband; a blue, V-neck long-sleeved shirt with cuffs and a waistband; a long-sleeved white shirt with a collar and cuffs; a purple evening dance dress with a zig-zag-cut skirt and a bodice with straps that tie at the shoulders; a short camel-colored caftan blouse with a waistband and ribbon ties at the sleeves' ends; a green flared ice skater's skirt; a green body suit with long sleeves and a turtle neck.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable sewing patterns for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Jersey fabric would definitely make the skirt drape more gently than the skirt I made from 100% cotton (the black gingham one shown earlier) from my Simplicity 5861 pattern.

So a person needs to be aware, when choosing fabrics, that 100% cotton, some satin fabrics, and other “crisp” fabrics, are going to be stiff, causing the circle skirt to stick up; whereas lightweight jersey fabrics don’t do that. Jersey naturally lays flatter.

Let’s look at two upper-body garments made using the Butterick 6664 pattern. The first one shows a 100% cotton dress:

In this photo, a Barbie doll models a caftan dress (also spelled Kaftan with a K instead of C). The doll holds her hands out away from her body, so we can see that the sleeves have a distinctive 1980's feel to them, with extra wide arm hole openings. The sleeves are gathered at the cuff. The fabric is white cotton with multi-colored teeny-tiny polka dots. It's a long dress, which has a boat neck and a very straight skirt. It's gathered at the waist with elastic.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable sewing patterns for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

You can see how the crispness of the cotton makes the fabric stiff in the image above.

But the tunic from Butterick 6664 was made from a lightweight jersey fabric, so although the design is very similar to the full-length dress, this tunic lays much more naturally against the doll’s body:

A black Barbie with pink lips, a dark chocolate complexion, and straight black hair, models a pink tunic made of jersey fabric over a pair of wide-leg grey cotton trousers or pants. A tiny pink shoe peeks out from under her grey pants. The tunic she wears has multicolored large circles on it, but it's more like decorative spots than true polka dots. The tunic has a boat neck and the sleeves gather at the wrists. The ChellyWood.com logo appears in the lower left corner.
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Even when I lift her arm up, it doesn’t look as stiff:

A Black Barbie wears a pair of handmade wide-leg pants and a tunic with long sleeves. Learn more about how to alter Buttericks personality doll wardrobe 6664 for Marie osmond dolls to create this outfit or one like it by visiting Chelly Wood dot com (a free doll clothes pattern sewing website).
Please visit ChellyWood.com for free printable PDF sewing patterns and tutorial videos for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

That’s because jersey fabric isn’t as rigid, on the whole. It’s a softer, more pliable fabric.

So let’s say I’m making the poodle skirt from my McCall’s Crafts 5462 doll clothes sewing pattern, what type of fabric do I want to use? Jersey? Cotton? A poly-cotton blend?

McCalls Crafts 5462 is shown, with ten different outfits, including a poodle style circle skirt (poodle skirt), a ballerina style ball gown, a workout jumpsuit, and two 1980's style Ken outfits.
Visit ChellyWood.com for free doll clothes sewing patterns to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

It really depends upon how you want the skirt to look when it’s on the doll.

Do you want it to drape softly against her hips? If so, then I’d use jersey fabric.

Do you want it to look like your fashion doll is mid-swirl when you take her picture? Then I’d use 100% cotton.

Visit ChellyWood.com for free doll clothes sewing patterns to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

Before you even start to cut out your fabric, you might gather the fabric in your hand and watch how it drapes as it hangs down from your hand.

Is it stiff? Does it flow more? This is how you determine the drape of a fabric.

The image shows the poodle skirt project as it's pictured on McCall's Barbie sewing pattern #5462.
Visit ChellyWood.com for free doll clothes sewing patterns to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes.

If I wanted it to drape like the picture on the cover of the McCall’s 5462 pattern, then I’d probably choose a polyester/cotton blend.

But if I wanted it to stick out in an obvious swirl, I’d go with the stiffest 100% cotton fabric I can find, like you see pictured here on my Stacie doll below. (By the way, this is one of my own, free patterns!)

The image shows a Mattel Stacie doll wearing handmade doll clothes that include a felt sleeveless shirt and a pink poodle skirt that flares outward, as if Stacie is spinning around. The overlay says, "ChellyWood.com: free doll clothes patterns and tutorials," reminding you to visit ChellyWood.com for your free printable sewing patterns for making doll clothes to fit dolls of many shapes and all different sizes. Would you like to make today's pink poodle skirt with a felt poodle patch sewn onto the skirt, along with the easy-to-sew felt sleeveless top? Please click on the link in the caption, and it will take you to the page where you can download and print the free printable PDF sewing patterns for making this outfit.

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This image shows four rows of artist's renderings of doll clothing items. The top row shows four different styles of pants. The second row shows four different styles of shirts. The third row shows four different styles of skirts. The fourth row shows four different styles of dresses, with skirts in long, short, and mid-length styles. The text reads at the top, "Classes in Doll Clothing Design" followed by this paragraph: "Have you ever wished you could create patterns of your own? Click on the links to Chelly's online courses below, to learn more about her paid courses in doll clothing pattern design techniques."

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*Please note: when you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include Amazon, Etsy, and the eBay Partner Network. As an Amazon affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases. To learn more about how my website uses affiliate marketing, please visit the website’s Privacy Policy page.

Chelly Wood and the ChellyWood.com website are not affiliated with the pattern company or companies mentioned in this blog post, but Chelly finds inspiration in the doll clothes designed by these pattern companies. To purchase patterns from Simplicity, McCall’s, Butterick, Vogue, or other pattern companies shown and discussed in this blog post, please click on the links provided here. These links below the “Disclaimer” section do not help raise money for this free pattern website; they are only offered to give credit to the company that made these patterns.

2 thoughts on “What is the best fabric for circle skirts? #SewingTips #DIY

  1. I don’t know why, but every fabric I use the skirt States very rigid and looks like a pagoda roof

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